What's on The Tasting Table today?

Bordeaux Cuvée Majeure Blanc Château Turcaud 2014 - From the beginning in 1973, when Maurice Robert purchased seven hectares of run down, abandoned vines in La Sauve Majeure, this has been one of the most extraordinary estates in Bordeaux. Within ten years Château Turcaud was represented on the wine lists of the most prestigious restaurants in France, including Gerard Vié’s “Les Trois Marches” in Versailles, and Jean-Claude Vrinat’s “Taillevent” in Paris. Under the direction of Stéphane Lemay, who is both a highly skilled vineyard manager, and a sensitive, talented winemaker, Château Turcaud has risen to even higher heights, and is always included on the short list of the greatest producers of white Bordeaux outside of the Graves. Six parcels of vines contribute to this spectacular blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and the rare Sauvignon Gris (long abandoned in most of Bordeaux because of its tiny yield). Here the Sauvignon Gris marks this incredible white Bordeaux with a saturated, straw green color, and exotic yellow fruit aromatics. The barrels add texture and discreet seasoning, but nothing that distracts from the pink grapefruit, freshly cut pineapple, honeysuckle, and lemongrass in the nose. On the palate the wine is full-bodied and sleek, with ripe citrus, sweet almond, and dried honey flavors seamlessly integrated with incredible mineral extract.

Benaco Bresciano Zerdi Azienda Agricola Cantrina 2013 - Cristina Inganni named her small estate after the village of the same name. Just under 15 American acres are densely planted to the traditional Gropello, Rebo, Incrocio Manzoni, and Marzemino, as well as small plantings of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sémillon, Petit Verdot, and Merlot. The smaller plantings go into her “experimental” bottlings,” while the “flagship” remains her D.O.C. Valtènesi. Her “Zerdi”, made from Rebo (a crossing of Merlot and Teroldego developed by Rebo Rigatti) is a deep, bright red with dense red-fruit aromatics that pairs well with Parmesan and prosciutto, as well as richer pork roasts.

Rheinhessen QbA Trocken Weingut Keller 2015 - When Klaus-Peter and his wife Julia took over at Weingut Keller in 2001, they had an enviable advantage: his parents had laid a solid foundation for the future of the estate with their work in soil analysis and clonal selection, and were already producing the best wines in Rheinhessen. But Klaus-Peter has taken Weingut Keller to even higher heights, inspiring a renaissance of viniculture in the Hügelland, where the Benedictines of the Kloster Lorch grew some of the most prestigious wines in the Rheinland, in vineyards that were forgotten after the French Revolution. But Klaus-Peter doesn’t have time for media stardom, and is quick to point out that “great wine would not be possible here, if it weren’t for these great limestone soils. It’s only that someone had to remember the old tradition and just make good wine.” This pale, green-gold dry Riesling has a penetrating, irresistible nose, with ripe green apples, lime blossoms, grapefruit zest, and a faint suggestion of sweet wood smoke moving in and out of the foreground as the wine evolves in the glass. Along the way, for a few moments, it smells almost as if it were seasoned with lemongrass and fresh wild rosemary. On the palate the wine is generous, pure, and complex, with ripe white peach, green apple, and citrus flavors unfolding with vibrant limestone mineral intensity, and the finish is long and refreshing, with plenty of fresh acidity, depth, and cut. This is flat-out great wine: worthy accompaniment to the most elegant seafood, and one of the happiest non-Burgundy accompaniments to a simple roasted chicken that I have ever experienced. 

Fleurie Domaine Gilles Gelin 2013 - In 1976, Gérard Gelin purchased the Château des Nugues in Lancié, along with 32 hectares of vineyards in the appellations Morgon, Fleurie, and Beaujolais-Villages. The vines average 45 years of age, with some parcels still in production that are over 100 years old. Today, Domaine Gelin is managed by Gérard’s son Gilles, who has taken the estate to the head of the class in Beaujolais, with most of the wine going to regional restaurants like “Georges Blanc” in Vonnas, and “Auberge du Cep” in Fleurie. as well as specialist retailers like “Les Caves Taillevent” and “Joël Robuchon” in Paris and Moore Brothers Wine Company. In the glass, the wine has a limpid, dark crimson color, with flashes of purple-blue. The nose opens quickly with ripe wild blueberries (like the little ones behind the Berkshire house), plump red cherries, and fresh hay. On the palate, the wine is concentrated and harmonious, with deep flavors that echo the nose, and evolve over time to include just-rained-on wet granite and black tea. There is wonderful fresh fruit acidity and mineral richness in the long, satisfying finish.

 

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Moore Brothers in New Jersey is approximately 10 minutes from Center City Philadelphia. Open 7 days a week.

Hours:
Mon-Fri: 10AM - 8PM
Sat: 9AM - 6PM
Sun: 11AM - 5PM

Moore Brothers - New Jersey
7200 N Park Dr
Pennsauken, NJ 08109
888-686-6673

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