What's on The Tasting Table today?

Côtes du Rhône La Rouyère Domaine Saint Amant 2013 - The Côtes du Rhône La Rouyère is comprised of equal parts of Syrah and Grenache, grown on a two-hectare, windswept parcel of limestone named for the stunted oaks that grew there before Camille’s father, Jacques Wallut, planted the vines. The grapes were harvested at only 25 hl/ha (a minuscule yield typical of much more expensive wine), and were fermented and aged in a mix of stainless steel tanks and 15-year-old temperature-controlled oak vats. In the glass, the wine has a limpid, saturated, red-garnet color, with flashes of crimson at the edge. Ripe Lambert cherries, strawberry preserves, and fresh violets move in and out of the foreground as the nose develops in the glass, sometimes changing places with fleeting suggestions of fresh thyme, rosemary, pomegranate, and lavender, all delicately seasoned with freshly ground black pepper. On the palate the wine is captivating and elegant, deep and substantial, but not obvious, with a core of sweet red fruit and baking spices, all underpinned by cool graphite minerality (like a northern Rhône Syrah). It’s hard to believe that this sublimely elegant wine comes from so far south.

Haardter Vom Gelben Fels Weingut Weegmüller 2013 - Founded in 1685, Weingut Weegmüller is the oldest winegrowing estate in the Pfalz, older even than the big “three Bs” (von Bassermann-Jordan, von Buhl, and Bürklin-Wolf). Gaby and Stefanie Weegmüller represent the eleventh generation of winegrowing Weegmüllers in Neustadt. There are sixteen hectares of vines, with parcels in all of the best vineyards in the villages of Haardt, Gimmelding, Neustadt, and Mußbach. When Steffi took over winemaking responsibility from her father in 1984, she had an enviable advantage: a close, familial friendship with Hans-Günther Schwarz, the long-time general manager of Weingut Müller-Catoir, and the godfather of an entire generation of the best young German winegrowers. It helped that Müller-Catoir is directly next door to Weegmüller, so it was easy for Hans-Günther to walk across the courtyard to taste and offer advice, and sometimes to lend a hand. There is a restrained, attractive nose of warm ripe lemons, white peonies, fresh peaches, and dried apricots. And for a few moments along the way, as it evolves in the glass, the wine smells as if it were somehow seasoned with a sprig of fresh wild rosemary. On the palate, the broad, generous flavors of honeycomb and ripe lemons, are buffered by palpable dry extract and salty minerality. There is plenty of fresh acidity and mineral cut, but the overall impression is sleek, citric, and creamy. Have this wine with shellfish, sushi, roasted turkey, ham, pâtés, and würste.

Coste della Sesia Rosso Uvaggio Proprietà Sperino 2012 - The eight hectares of vines at Proprietà Sperino are mostly in the historic district of Ori, so-called for the deep yellow marine sand that lies on the sun drenched sub-alpine plateau of Orolungo. The climate is dry, with a cool breeze that blows down from Monte Rosa. According to Il Corriere Vinicolo, Italy’s wine Wall Street Journal, the wines grown here a hundred years ago by Dott. Felice Sperino, Paolo De Marchi’s great, great uncle, were the most expensive wines in Italy. Today, after more than ten years of arduous work restoring the vineyards and renovating the winery, Paolo and his son Luca (who lives in Lessona and manages the estate) have given new life to Proprietà Sperino, and are now at the vanguard of a renaissance of this historic wine growing area. The wine has a limpid dark garnet color, warming to deep mahogany at the edge. The nose of sweet amarena cherries, pine needles, and dried rose petals is seasoned with a faint suggestion of wild mint and sweet herbs. On the palate, this elegant wine is even finer and more Chambolle-Musigny-like than earlier vintages: polished (and powerful), with deep, mineral-infused red fruit flavors framed in ripe, elegant, fine-grained tannins.

Côtes du Rhône Blanc Domaine Jaume 2015 - The modern history of this eighty-hectare estate in Vinsobres began with Henri Chauvet and Baron Le Roy, who together introduced the idea of “appellation contrôlée” in France in the 1920s. Henri Chauvet’s son-in-law Pierre Jaume was the driving force in the development of the estate, but it was his son Claude who was the first to estate-bottle the wines. Grandsons Pascal and Richard took over in the 1980s, and have continued to enlarge and improve Domaine Jaume; with carefully considered purchases like the vineyard they call “Altitude 420,” and the “Clos des Échelas.” In the glass, this blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Marsanne, and Roussanne has a pale, luminous, yellow-green color, and aromas that include grilled pineapple, orange marmalade, and a fleeting suggestion of fresh sage and spearmint. On the palate, the wine is rich, but not syrupy or fat, with layered flavors that include sun warmed pears, lemon zest, and crystallized honey, all seasoned with palpable, almost salty limestone minerality.

 

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Moore Brothers in New Jersey is approximately 10 minutes from Center City Philadelphia. Open 7 days a week.

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Sat: 9AM - 6PM
Sun: 11AM - 5PM

Moore Brothers - New Jersey
7200 N Park Dr
Pennsauken, NJ 08109
888-686-6673

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