From five separate parcels that total 1.2 hectares: two on the top on the hill in Monts Luisants, one in Fremières, and two on the lower slope in Chabiots and Mochamps, the Clos de la Roche 2017 is the most profound wine made here since the Charmes-Chambertin 2005.
This breathtakingly beautiful wine won’t fade in a carafe, so if you open within the next ten years don’t hesitate to decant it, and be sure to use a good large glass. The wine has a saturated dark crimson red color, which cools to bright fuchsia just at the edge. Fresh aromas of red and black fruit, including red raspberry preserves, candied black cherries, and sun-warmed Damson plums, along with fresh white tobacco, faded peonies, rose hips, and rhubarb move in and out of the foreground as the nose evolves in the glass.
On the palate, the wine is dense and opulent; even powerful; with a solid core of brooding, mineral-saturated flavors that echoes the nose, sometimes adding grated orange zest, cardamom, and allspice as the wine grows more voluminous over time. This is a perfect example of the kind of profound, aristocratic Burgundy that motivates winegrowers around the world to try their hand at Pinot Noir. Drink now, or even better, give it another decade or more in your cool dark cellar.
About this wine producer: Brothers Didier and Jean-Louis Amiot represent the fifth generation of their branch of the Amiot family growing wine in the Côte de Nuits. Currently, they farm forty individual parcels in Morey-Saint-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin, some of which are more than seventy-years-old. There are eight hectares in total, including vines in five Premiers Crus and two Grands Crus.
The grapes are hand-harvested, sorted at the winery, and depending on the vintage, between 70% and 100% are destemmed. The wines ferment on the ambient yeast for ten days in thermoregulated tanks, and are matured for fifteen to eighteen months in oak barrels, of which 30% for the Premiers Crus, and 50% for the Grands Crus are new. There is only one racking, and the wines are bottled unfiltered. Their entire annual production is a minuscule 2,500 cases in most vintages.