This bright green-gold just off-dry Riesling has a delicate, irresistible nose, with passion fruit, white flowers, honeyed citrus, and dried honey moving in and out of the foreground, alternating with white peaches, pink grapefruit, lemon zest, and a fleeting suggestion of sweet wood smoke as the nose evolves in the glass.
On the palate, the wine is a juicy explosion, shimmering with voltaic tension between delicate sweetness and electrifying apple and lime citric acidity. But you never notice sweetness or acidity separately. Pure green apple, white cranberry, tangerine, and stone fruit flavors, all seasoned with palpable saline minerality, lead to a long emphatic finish, with plenty of fresh acidity, depth, and cut. John Gilman, arguably the world’s foremost critic of German wine, called it “succulent and flat out delicious.”
About this wine producer: In 2001, Klaus-Peter Keller and his wife, Julia, took over his family’s estate, Weingut Keller. The Keller family has a strong interest in the history of the local vineyards, and many of their vineyards are previously forgotten plots of excellent terroir, including Grosses Gewächs vineyards. Klaus-Peter’s parents, who became known for producing some of the best wines in the Rheinhessen region, laid a solid foundation for the future of the estate with their work in soil analysis and clonal selection. Today, Klaus-Peter has taken the estate to even greater heights, and he continues to emphasize the importance of the terroir and the regional history. He is quick to point out that “great wine would not be possible here, if it weren’t for these great limestone soils. It’s only that someone had to remember the old tradition and just make good wine.”