In the glass, the wine has a dark royal purple color, with flashes of purple-blue on the swirl. The nose unfurls with aromas of crunchy red and black fruit, including black raspberries, wild blueberries, Damson plums, and griotte cherries, all moving in and out of the foreground, sometimes changing places with faint suggestions of dried violets, pekoe tea, and just-rained- on granite with hints of rusty iron.
On the palate, the wine is light on its feet and supple, yet multi-layered and concentrated, with a core of red and black-fruit flavors that echo the nose, along with hints of fresh thyme, red peppercorns and walnut shells as the wine evolves in the glass. The long, satisfying finish is extended by lively fresh fruit acidity and dry mineral extract, and is punctuated with ripe, fine-grained tannins. There is excellent persistence and intensity, and I’m told the wine is even better the second day (which I can’t confirm from personal experience; I haven’t yet failed to finish a bottle). GM
About this wine producer: The original family estate consisted of these two hectares of weathered schist in “Javernières” on the Côte du Py, an undisputed Grand Cru (if the vineyards of Beaujolais had ever been classified). In 1970, Patrick’s father, Robert Brunet, purchased four more hectares of sandy granite, in a climat appropriately named “Champagne,” located in the heart of Fleurie. “Champagne” had been planted in 1930, and along with the tiny parcel of “Javernières” made Robert Brunet the proprietor of two of the finest vineyards in all of Beaujolais. Regrettably, Robert died suddenly when Patrick was only eighteen, so the choice Patrick faced was stark: let his mother rent out the vineyards so he could stay in school, or take over the estate at the age of eighteen. Naturally, he chose the latter, and never looked back.