First, what not to expect: there is no theater popcorn butter. No overripe papaya or cotton candy. This is a wine for fans of Klaus Peter Keller’s Riesling von der Fels; for people who think they don’t like Chardonnay. In the glass, the Trousse Chemise Yamhill-Carlton Chardonnay has the color of 18k yellow gold in bright sunshine. Aromas of clove-studded Crispin apples, Asian pears, toasted cashews, and wildflower honey emerge from the glass, with underlying suggestions of spearmint, nutmeg, and vanilla as the nose evolves over time.
On the palate, the wine is sumptuous, elegant, and dry, with a supple core of spice-infused orchard fruit flavors seasoned with delicate Meursault-like bitterness, citrus oil, and a persistent seam of sea-salt minerality. Then the finish calls back the cloves and the nutmeg in the nose, and adds a pleasant suggestion of freshly cut hay.
About this wine producer: As the daughter of a French diplomat, Anne Sery-Martindale grew up around fabulous Burgundies from producers like Ghislaine Barthod, Christophe Roumier, and Louis Boillot, which sparked her own passion for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and led her to pursue winemaking as a profession. After university studies with famed enologist Denis Dubourdieu, Anne moved to Oregon, and continued her training with Laurent Montalieu at Soléna Estate in Yamhill. Currently, Anne is the winemaker at Montalieu’s Hyland Estates and NW Wine Company in McMinnville, which gives her access to some of the best grapes in Oregon, as well as a state-of-the-art facility for her own custom winemaking.