As if it were illuminated from inside the glass, the Almondo Roero has a limpid, saturated ruby-red color that warms to bright mahoganey just at the edge. When the wine is first poured, compelling aromas of wild cherries, sun-warmed raspberries, black mission figs, and dark chocolate move in and out of the foreground, later alternating with fleeting suggestions of dried peaches, star anise, sweet herbs, and faded rose petals as the nose evolves in the glass.
On the palate, the wine is stunning: open, round, elegant, and generous on entry, with juicy red cherry and raspberry compote flavors that echo the nose, all gracefully seasoned with fine, sandy, Roero minerality. More like a Roumier Chambolle-Musigny than a Barolo, with a lingering, bright, delicately tannic finish.
About this wine producer: The Almondos have grown grapes in Roero for more than three centuries, but it was Domenico’s father, Giovanni Almondo, who was the first to bottle the wines. There are six hectares of Arneis, the noble white variety of Piemonte, along with four hectares of Nebbiolo for the Roeros, one-and-a-half hectares of Barbera, and a tiny parcel of Brachetto which goes into the classic, slightly sparkling, pale sweet Fosso della Rosa. Giovanni Almondo still works in the vineyards, but day-to-day operations are in the hands of Domenico and his sons, Stefano and Federico, who are all uncompromising perfectionists in the vineyard and in the cellar.