The Riesling Rheinschiefer comes mostly from the stony, bundschiefer Hallgarten Hendelberg, one of the highest vineyards in the Rheingau.
In the glass, this sapid, mouthfilling dry Riesling has a limpid lemon-gold color. The nose is reticent at first, with aromas of white grapefruit, walnut oil, freshly sliced green apples, and lime blossoms moving in and out of the foreground, later alternating with Meyer lemon, baking spices, jasmine, and hibiscus as the wine evolves in the glass.
On the palate, the wine is liquefied slate: generous, creamy, and dry, with flavors of white cranberries, nectarines, candied apricots, and lemon verbena, all seasoned with a vibrant combination of intense sea-salt minerality and fine bracing citric acidity. The finish is long and dry, with plenty of fresh acidity, depth, and cut.
About this wine producer: Peter Jakob Kühn, who in November 2015, was named Winzer des Jahres 2016 (“Winegrower of the Year”) by Gault et Millau, farms eighteen hectares of gently sloping clay-limestone and slate vineyards in Oestrich, Hallgarten, and Mittelheim, and represents the eleventh generation of Kühns to grow wine in the Rheingau. He was already a leader of the “Rheingau Renaissance” of the 1990s, having created one of the top estates in Germany, when he completed the transformation to organic viticulture in 2004, and became a member of Demeter, the organization that certifies biodynamic farms. Today, he and his son Peter Bernhard are the most rigorous practitioners of biodynamic viticulture in Germany.