Lessona is comprised of 100% Nebbiolo, sourced from what Luca De Marchi says would be the two Grand Cru vineyards in the region (if a classification ever occurs), Covà and Monfalcone. After rigorous selection of fruit, the grapes were de-stemmed and pressed softly to favor the aromatic profile of perfectly ripe Nebbiolo in this excellent vintage. The wine is matured for thirty-two months in barrels of various sizes, and then aged in bottle for another year in the cellar.
In the glass, the wine has a saturated, deep ruby red color that gradually warms to red mahogany at the edge. Sweet amarena cherries, dried rose petals, rosemary and pine needles emerge on the nose, seasoned with a faint suggestion of sweet herbs, baking spices and wild mint as the wine spends time in the glass.
On the palate, the wine is powerful, but with a silken finesse, with a core of succulent red and black fruit flavors that echo the nose, all of which is seasoned by a persistent mineral acidity that carries the flavors through a seemingly endless finish.
About this wine producer: Paolo De Marchi, famous for his Isole e Olena estate in Chianti Classico, always dreamed of reviving wine production at his family’s Proprietà Sperino estate in the Lessona region of Piemonte. According to Il Corriere Vinicolo, Italy’s “wine Wall Street Journal,” the wines grown here a hundred years ago by Dott. Felice Sperino, Paolo De Marchi’s great, great uncle, were the most expensive wines in Italy. Today, after nearly twenty years of arduous work restoring the vineyards and renovating the winery, Paolo and his son Luca (who lives in Lessona and manages the estate) have given new life to Proprietà Sperino, Paolo’s childhood home, and are now at the vanguard of a renaissance of this historic wine growing area.