Meursault Perrières is a Premier Cru vineyard of Meursault noted for wines of racy, firm structure. First, use a good large Burgundy glass if you can, not only to contain the fascinating aromas, but also to show off the deep, very saturated, bright green-gold color. Roasted hazelnuts, ripe Braeburn apples, dried honey, and clean fresh hay move in and out of the foreground as the wine evolves over time. On the palate, the attack is assertive at first, and then the wine becomes languid, as the ripe honeyed flavors grow more voluminous with time, adding lime blossom and smoke, and always remaining firm, fresh and vibrant, like a perfect skipping stone (and the empty glass smells great for hours).
About this wine producer: The story we heard was that Robert Ampeau once turned away a swaggering Michelin three-star chef who arrived unannounced to taste wine. But I’d also heard stories of the five incredible cellars under the rue du Cromin, and that Robert’s son Michel was funny and smart. Meeting the Ampeaus was an epiphany, and the the stories about Robert and Michel Ampeau “holding back the wines until they was ready to drink” weren’t true at all. They simply didn’t care whether or not anyone bought them, as much as they cared about the weather, and the vines, and their annual struggle with nature to produce them.