The elegant, dry Riesling der Gärtner 2020 comes mostly from the Kanzemer Sonnenberg, where Anna is standing in the photo below, and from Peter Reinert’s old vines in Wiltingen and Wawern. In the glass, the wine has a limpid, bright yellow-green color, with flashes of platinum just at the edge. Aromas of white peaches, peppered mango, green apples, and orange blossoms emerge and change places with fleeting suggestions of white nectarines, lemongrass, passionfruit, and green tea, as the nose evolves in the glass. On the palate, the wine is dry, delicately creamy, and palpably dense, with flavors of Asian pears, crystallized ginger, Meyer lemon, white grapefruit unfolding in a vibrant combination of saline mineral intensity and crystalline transparency, all infused with a rock pile of liquefied slate minerality, and fine, ripe, playful tartaric acidity. Drink now–2027.
About this wine producer: Anna Reimann is a native of the Saar, with graduate degrees in enology and viticulture from the University of Montpellier, and work experience that includes winemaking at Viña Santa Rita in Chile, Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, and Greenough Vineyard in New Zealand. She met her husband, Stephan, at Weingut Markus Molitor, where she served as Director of International Sales, and he as Chief Vineyard Manager.
Their estate is centered on the eighteenth-century Cantzheim Manor at the foot of the Kanzemer Altenberg, which Anna and Stephan have transformed into a beautiful small hotel. Attached to the manor are old vines in the Altenberg and Kanzemer Sonnenberg, to which they have added a tiny parcel in the center of the Saarburger Füchs, as well as the vineyards formerly worked by Peter Reinert, who has retired.