The Uvaggio has a saturated cranberry red color, cooling to deep limpid garnet just at the edge. The nose of dark Amarena cherries, wild strawberries, dried rose petals, and tree mushrooms is seasoned with faint suggestions of black licorice, dried figs, rosemary, and vanilla (which comes in part from the mix of new and used barrels). On the palate, the wine seems blacker and more structured than earlier vintages: medium bodied and concentrated, like the youthful Vosne-Romanée 2005 that I tasted on Tuesday, with deep, black-and-red fruit flavors seasoned with pine bark, cardamom, and palpable, almost saline minerality–all framed in dusty, brushed Merino wool tannins and bright, refreshing red berry acidity.
About this wine producer: According to Il Corriere Vinicolo, Italy’s “wine Wall Street Journal,” the “Spanna” (Nebbiolo) grown a hundred years ago by Paolo De Marchi’s great, great uncle was the most expensive wine in Italy. Today, after ten years spent replanting the vineyards and renovating the winery, Paolo and Luca have given new life to Proprietà Sperino, and stimulated a renaissance of viticulture in this historic wine-growing area. The eight hectares of vines at Proprietà Sperino are mostly in the district of Ori, so-called for the deep yellow marine sand that lies on the sun-drenched, sub-alpine plateau of Orolungo. If you scoop up the soil only a half-hour after a rainstorm, it slips through your fingers like sand in an hourglass.