The best answer to what really goes best with a wine like this electrifying, exotically sweet Auslese, might be nothing at all, except a good friend. In the glass, the wine has a saturated, deep lemon-gold color. Aromas of Asian pear, candied honeydew, and white peaches move in and out of the foreground, later alternating with kafir lime, yellow passionfruit and Italian parsley as the nose evolves in the glass. Compared with sweet Riesling, the insistent, compelling perfume of this fabulous Auslese is more tropical (more mango, passionfruit, and ripe pineapple), yet on the palate, the honeyed pear nectar, and Comice pear flavors are seasoned with no less laser-like racy acidity, and plenty of palpable saline minerality, which carry the flavors through what seems to be an endless finish.
About this wine producer: Klaus-Peter Keller has inspired a renaissance of viniculture in the Hügelland, where the Benedictines of the Kloster Lorch grew some of the most prestigious wines in the Rheinland, in vineyards that were forgotten after the French Revolution. His stunning dry Rieslings have been called “the German Montrachets” by Jancis Robinson, MW, the brilliant editor of The Oxford Companion to Wine. But his noble sweet wines are no less well received. In fact, Keller has won the Gault Millau “Best of Germany” award in both categories. “If I had to name the best producer in Germany today, it would be Klaus‐Peter Keller, wrote Steven Tanzer, the world’s stingiest wine critic. “Everything he touches turns to gold.” Though lionized by the journalists as the greatest winegrower of his generation, Klaus-Peter is quick to point out that “great wine would not be possible here, if it weren’t for these great limestone soils. It’s only that someone had to remember the old tradition and just make good wine.”