First, use a good large glass (this saturated, light catching, pale gold Chardonnay is Burgundy, after all, and a textbook example of how fine wine evolves over time after it’s poured). The nose unfurls with aromas of ripe yellow pears, blanched almonds, Devon cream and almond blossoms, sometimes alternating with suggestions of white peaches, verbena, green tea, and chamomile, as the nose evolves in the glass. On the palate, the wine is sumptuous and silky, with creamy, limestone-infused Chardonnay flavors that echo the nose, adding wildflower honey, pink sea salt, and a fleeting suggestion of fresh spearmint, all seasoned with mouth-watering, limestone minerality. Another fabulous wine in this remarkable Mâconnais vintage; the overall impression is one of luscious, sunny mineral opulence.
About this wine producer: In 2005, when Jean-Claude Janin walked away from the prestige and security he’d enjoyed for eighteen years as the winemaker and chef de cave at the cooperative winery in Viré, it was as courageous a move as young André Bonhomme’s decision to begin estate bottling his own wine almost fifty years earlier. Not least, because he had a brand-new son. Today, more than ten years after he left the cooperative in Viré, the estate that he and his wife Marie-Odile established around the four hectares she inherited from her father has grown to almost eight, with vineyards in the commune of Péronne near their home, and in the lieux-dits Chazelle, Quintaine, and Vérizet in Viré-Clessé two kilometers away. Most of the wine is sold directly to private customers and local restaurants.