In the glass, the wine has a medium deep, honeyed green-gold color. Fuji apples, white peaches, dried honeycomb, and white flowers emerge at first, sometimes giving way to pink grapefruit, Persian melon, dried mango, and toasted pine nuts as the nose evolves in the glass.
On the palate, the wine is juicy and full-bodied, with plenty of dry extract, deep saline minerality, and beautifully integrated citric acidity. The layered sweet core of dried honey, lemon zest, almonds, and fresh butter is seasoned with delicate bitterness, and the long elegant finish is punctuated with briny minerality.
This is a perfect wine for seafood, including marine fish, shellfish, and crustaceans, and texturally, the wine is akin to white Burgundy, so it’s also wonderful alongside a roasted chicken.
About this wine producer: Giorgio Brunori’s decision to bottle his wines and open an enoteca in Jesi changed the face of wine in Ancona Province. The Brunoris, like every other family, sold their fruit in bulk, to be turned into the watery, bland wine sold in kitschy, fish-shaped bottles to tourists visiting the seashore. But Giorgio knew his farming deserved a better audience, so along with his son Mario, he began to estate bottle their harvest in 1956. And the bottled wines brought notice from renowned wine writers Luigi Veronelli and Victor Hazan, whose glowing reviews turned the world’s attention to Georgio’s wines. Now his grandchildren, Carlo and Cristina, hold the reins at Azienda Brunori. The story is a familiar one at Moore Brothers: like André Bonhomme, another iconoclastic winegrower who was the first in his area to estate bottle his wines, the Brunori family is our favorite kind of producer.