This year, the color is exactly that of a nearly ripe Red Haven peach, with flashes of polished copper at the edge. In the glass, aromas of ripe yellow peaches, white cherries, persimmon, and fraises des bois move in and out of the foreground (not too cold, please), adding fleeting suggestions of rose petals, fresh watercress, and lime zest as the nose develops in the glass. On the palate, the wine is luscious and ample, with vibrant orchard-fruit flavors that echo the nose, evolving into a fascinating amalgam of sun-warmed apricots, chinotto, strawberry-rhubarb, and bergamot, all seasoned with a flake or two of pink sea salt minerality. Every year the wine is unique, and every year I write that it could be the most exciting Rosa del Rosa yet (this year, I’m sure it is). Drink now through next spring, when the 2020 vintage is sure to have arrived – with any dish you can imagine – or by itself with nothing at all but a good friend.
About this wine producer: According to Il Corriere Vinicolo, Italy’s “wine Wall Street Journal,” the “Spanna” (Nebbiolo) grown a hundred years ago by Paolo De Marchi’s great, great uncle was the most expensive wine in Italy. Today, after ten years spent replanting the vineyards and renovating the winery, Paolo and Luca have given new life to Proprietà Sperino, and stimulated a renaissance of viticulture in this historic wine-growing area. The eight hectares of vines at Proprietà Sperino are mostly in the district of Ori, so-called for the deep yellow marine sand that lies on the sun-drenched, sub-alpine plateau of Orolungo. If you scoop up the soil only a half-hour after a rainstorm, it slips through your fingers like sand in an hourglass.