This classic Dogliani, a perfect example of the kind of wine that makes people in Piemonte happiest, comes from three hectares of Dolcetto that were planted by Anna Maria’s father more than forty years ago, on a south-facing slope of tufo and marl near the Abbona home.
The grapes are hand-harvested, and the wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks for ten months. In the glass, the Sorí dij But has an inky, ruby purple color, almost opaque at the center. Aromas of black plums, sun-warmed wild blueberries, crushed violets, and black tea alternate with more fleeting suggestions of black licorice, porcini mushrooms, cardamom, and fresh white tobacco as the nose evolves in the glass.
On the palate, the wine is mouthfilling, generous, and supple, with rich, warm black fruit flavors that echo the nose, including ripe amarena cherries, pomegranate, black mission figs, and cinnamon bark, all framed in unexpectedly bright red-berry acidity, plummy, velvety tannins, and fine, iron-rich minerality that cleanses the palate, and persists through a long exuberant finish.
About this wine producer: If there is any producer in Dogliani who perfectly embodies the idea of stewardship of her heritage, it is Anna Maria Abbona. She was working as a successful graphic designer in1989 when her father told her that he was ready to retire and sell his vineyards, some of them planted in the 1930s by her great grandfather. Anna Maria couldn’t bear to see her roots torn out, so as a determined young woman with school-age children, she returned to the farm with her husband Franco Schellino. Her vineyards are the highest in Dogliani, and are perfectly suited to the classic style of Dolcetto that has reemerged in the last decade: violet colored, moderately tannic, deeply satisfying wine to drink with food. Today, Anna Maria Abbona leads the elite of Dogliani.