posted on November 13, 2016
The very rare: Brunori Alborada Lacrima
Year after year, our entire allocation of the tiny production Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Alborada from Brunori sells out in a single morning leaving a throng of disappointed customers who didn’t purchase fast enough. This year, we’re being far more careful, posting the offer to the website and letting just a few Facebook friends know.
So if you were lucky enough to stumble upon on this page, take my advice and hit the ‘add to cart’ before you read one more word, and lock up as many bottles as you can.
Why is Brunori’s Alborada Lacrima so sought after and hard to find?
Carlo Brunori’s Alborada is a luscious cornucopia of wild blueberries, crushed violets, and lavender. Imagine a blend of a Domaine de Robert Morgon with a Fabrice Gasnier Chinon, and you get the idea. Alborada is made from the incredibly rare Lacrima variety grown within the boundaries of the very small area in the Marche (the “un-Tuscany”) known as Morro d'Alba which is just west of Ancona (no relationship to the Piemontese region). This unique, indigenous grape is called Lacrima for its thin skins, which sometimes split open and weep “tears” of sweet juice when the grapes are fully ripe. The grape was almost extinct in 1985 when the DOC was established. Just shy of 70 cases are are all that is available for this offering.
Generations of Brunoris have grown wine in the province of Ancona, in Le Marche, but none was bottled until 1956, when Mario Brunori established his winery in the rural Contrada San Nicolò. At the same time, he opened a small wine shop in the nearby town of Jesi. Today, Mario’s son Giorgio heads the family business, assisted by his daughter Cristina who manages the office, and his enologist son Carlo who is in charge of the winery. Specialties include outstanding Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno, as well as some of the best Verdicchio in the province.
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